Lost in Translation Filming Locations: Shibuya Scramble Intersection
Some of the most iconic scenes of the film are the early shots of Charlotte (Scarlett Johansson) walking through the famed Shibuya Scramble intersection on a rainy day among a sea of pedestrians wielding clear plastic umbrellas. Charlotte weaves through the chaotic intersection and looks up at the landmark Q FRONT building (8 stories, completed in 1999) which at the time was one of the tallest buildings in Shibuya. The building’s front face is covered by a large digital display called ‘Q’s Eye’, measuring 19 meters wide by 24 meters high, which is the main focal point for pedestrians waiting to cross Shibuya’s scramble intersection and bathes the entire area in its neon glow.
When Charlotte crosses the Shibuya scramble intersection, the camera pans up to Q’s Eye, where a massive brontosaurus (followed by some elephants) traverse across the large screen. Later, we see a POV shot of the intersection from one of the second floor of Q FRONT, which is home to one of the world’s most heavily trafficked Starbucks locations. This second floor seating area of the ubiquitous coffee chain is a prime ‘people watching’ location in Tokyo as patrons can sip their coffee with a sweeping view of the famed intersection. Lance Accord, the film’s cinematographer, said that this was the most stressful scene of the entire film to shoot since they did not have a permit to shoot in Shibuya and could have been arrested and/or fined if they had been noticed.
Shibuya has long been known as the home of Japanese youth fashion and is often compared to Times Square in New York City due to the large foot traffic and permeating neon. In recent years Shibuya has begun to ‘grow-up’ as a massive redevelopment plan was implemented in the run up to the delayed 2020 Olympics. Though the intersection remains largely the same the Q FRONT building still towers over pedestrians looking to cross towards Center Street from the JR Shibuya Station, three new skyscrapers now dominate the Shibuya Skyline: Shibuya Hikarie (33 stories, completed 2012), Shibuya Stream (35 stories, completed 2018) and Shibuya Scramble Square (47 stories, completed 2019), with at least two more currently under construction. Large multinationals such as Google have already moved into these swanky new towers and the developers would like to see Shibuya become Tokyo’s new ‘tech hub’ when all is said and done.
By the time all of the construction is finished (currently scheduled for 2027), the station area (including the famous meeting square where the Hachiko statue is located) will be unrecognizable. The JR station at the heart of Shibuya is currently undergoing a massive overhaul which will substantially change the configuration of the main square and it remains unclear where the Hachiko statute and meeting square will be relocated. The landmark East, West and South buildings of the Tokyo Department Store, which were first completed in 1934 and long stood as Shibuya’s nerve center and nexus for several train lines, were closed for good in 2020 to make room for a second tower that will comprise part of the Shibuya Scramble Square complex. We can only hope that with all of these changes, Shibuya will retain the wonderous charm that Sofia Coppola so beautifully captured in her film.
The clear plastic umbrellas used by Charlotte and others in this scene can be found everywhere on a rainy day in Tokyo. They are readily available at most Japanese convenience stores for about JPY 500 (USD 5). Everyone in Japan (myself included) hoards several of these convenience store specials in our apartment entranceways as proof of poor weather planning and the unpredictability of Japan’s rainy season.
Shibuya Station Redevelopment Plan Website: https://www.shibuyastation.com/shibuya-station-area-redevelopment-plan/
Soundtrack from Shibuya scramble intersection scene:
